On the road with …
Morgan Lewis, Head Chef, The Goods Shed
The Goods Shed, just next to Canterbury West station, is home to one of The Falstaff’s favourite restaurants, a unique pioneer in farm-to-table dining. Deeply connected to its own farm, fresh, seasonal local produce is brought directly from field to plate, minimizing food miles and supporting local agriculture and producers. This month we were lucky enough to touch base with their newly promoted head chef, Morgan Lewis, to learn more about his background and travel history.
Having relocated from Spain to run the legendary Red Lion in nearby Stodmarsh, Morgan joined the Goods Shed in 2023. He understood their vision right down to the ground – or perhaps more aptly, from the ground. Morgan’s roots are literal. He began as a forager, driven by a curiosity for the wild and the edible. His passion for ingredients led him into the kitchen, where, self-taught, he cooked what he gathered. Morgan doesn’t cook produce; he listens to it, and it leads him. He is a chef with a systems mind – someone who understands the complex web connecting land, the plate and people. As his team describe, since his recent promotion, Morgan has “tightened that web at The Goods Shed and his inquisitive, investigative approach has created an energy in the kitchen that’s fresh, fun, and joyous; despite the serious integrity with which Morgan approaches food, the result is colourful, delicious and happy. This is a chef to get really excited about. An extraordinary, visionary man. Customers are calling it “generous, sparkling food.” We just call it Morgan.”
To be honest, words don’t really do it justice – tasting is believing, so be sure to ask our reception team to book you a table there during your stay. If you are quick enough, you may still get your hands on one of the last seats at their upcoming farm Midsummer banquet.
What brings you to Canterbury?
I grew up just south of Cheltenham in the North Cotswolds but moved to Spain after university. I lived there for 8 or so years where my boss happened to be from Ramsgate. A chance meeting by him with someone who was holidaying from there, led to us leasing The Red Lion at Stodmarsh and I moved back with my partner to work there. I hadn’t ever really been to Kent before, other than passing through to cross the Channel, so it was an exciting new landscape – or terroir I suppose – to discover.
Where did you go on your last journey?
My last journey was to Rioja when we were invited by a vineyard to stay for a week. It was a beautiful time, and our hosts took us to all the best local secret locations with lots of wine tastings, plus a visit to a restaurant that is famous for its jamón croquetas – I dream about those croquetas, and for the life of me I can’t remember the name of the restaurant! They were so different to any I’ve ever had before (and I’ve had LOTS). It made me realise that there are levels to even the simplest of things – these were definitely top tier. I got to speak to the chef through our host and he gave me the secret, though sadly I’ve never been able to fully recreate that magic.
What is your preferred mode of transport?
Cars – I’m a huge car guy. My everyday drive is a convertible Audi that makes every warm day feel like you’re going somewhere special. I prefer vintage cars and bikes,
but anything with a big engine will do. My father is a mechanical engineer (he taught the Mclaren F1 team apprentices for a while) and also a big vintage car guy, so I grew up around old motors and racing. During lockdown I heavily customized an 800cc BMW cafe racer R80st… so maybe that would be my 1st choice for travelling? Travel light and find a mountain to whizz around with frequent stops for cheese, bread and charcuterie.
Describe your favourite journey
I think my favourite journey would have been when I bought my Jaguar. I was still living in Ibiza and I bought the car in England. We turned it into a sort of holiday, flying back to collect it and then driving it back to Ibiza, stopping along the way through France and Spain. We visited some beautiful little villages in France, once staying at the tip-top of a medieval castle on a big hill in the south, where locals had to come out of their houses and help me guide the car inch by inch through the tiny medieval streets – it was an amazing journey.
Home or away? Why?
Anywhere with friends, good food and good wine. Kent is such a beautiful place with such a range of landscapes – it’s not hard to feel like you’re on holiday right here!
If you could travel anywhere at any time… where and when?
I think the Indonesian archipelago at the turn of the 20th century would be a fascinating place. I read Alfred Russel Wallace’s Malay Archipelago when I was 20 or so, and it just sounded like a wild and truly mystical place, which in his day must have felt like going to a different universe. David Attenborough said the same when he visited there in the 1950’s and there’s another more recent book by Dr Laurence Blair, Ring of Fire, that describes the place in time and documents his travels and adventures in the area with his brother, Lorne. I actually got to meet him when I was there – and I seriously recommend the book – wild.
What essentials do you always travel with to ease your journey?
AirPods. I always need to have an audio book or a podcast going. Oh – and a little box of good salt and a bottle of something spicy. Sam from Lord of The Rings gave me the idea!
What is your favourite travel song?
Bad Moon Rising by Credence Clearwater Revival. Roof down, warm twilight sky… it’s the one.
Where is the strangest place you have slept on your travels.
I’ve slept on quite a few beaches and in cars – I used to have an estate car that I loved because I could put both the back seats down flat and I’d always keep a sleeping bag and pillow in the boot… it was like a lovely double bed!
Who is/would be your ideal travel companion?
Always my partner, Danielle. She is my soulmate and I couldn’t imagine going anywhere without her. She has the most unique way of experiencing things and everything seems new through her – even the smallest things quickly become cherished memories. Soppy I know, but it’s true!
Describe the best/most unusual meal you have eaten whilst travelling.
I was cooked for in Bali by my friend’s maid. She was legendary in his village for making the best satay, so for my birthday they organised for the gamelan (local Indonesian orchestra) to play, and she cooked stack upon stack of different types of satay. The legends were true, and I’ve never been able to get close to those flavours.
